The Harwood Arms
18.06.10
One year after its launch, the Michelin-starred Harwood Arms continues to make its name as one of the most exciting destinations in London for food lovers with a taste for seasonal produce and glorious game, as MARK TAYLOR discovered
One only has to look around at some of the customers’ attire to see that The Harwood Arms isn’t your average city gastropub.
Hunter wellies, Barbour jackets, tweeds and an assortment of russet and green clothes makes this handsome Fulham boozer feel more Cotswolds than London.
The pub is co-owned by chef Mike Robinson of The Pot Kiln in Berkshire and Brett Graham, the chef from Notting Hill’s two Michelin-starred Ledbury restaurant. Head chef Stephen Williams used to work at The Ledbury, too.
Robinson is well known for his love of all things game and he shoots much of it himself. The rest is supplied by game dealer and butcher Vicars, just up the road from The Pot Kiln.
Game dominates the menu. Recent highlights have included a plate of partridge starters (for two people sharing): Kiev with marjoram butter, rissoles on liquorice, glazed legs and tea with celeriac coleslaw and pickled pear, and a delicious mixed grill of Linkenholt Estate fallow deer with crispy garlic potatoes and black cabbage.
Other seasonal ingredients making a welcome return in the colder months have been hare, chestnuts and quince.
The Harwood Arms is also proud to be the only London venue serving British truffles. Diners can try them out with Cornish cod and a wild mushroom and Jerusalem artichoke tart.
With its worn wooden boards, crackling log fire, battered leather sofas, black and white hunting photographs and antiques, it looks the part.
Staff are young, enthusiastic and friendly and there is an attention to detail at every level — from the iced water served in small ceramic jugs to the generous pile of excellent bread presented in diminutive Hessian flour sacks.
As well as a cracking wine list boasting an abundance of old world French classics, you can enjoy glasses of warm cider topped with Julian Temperley’s 10-year-old Somerset Cider Brandy or choose between three real ales (Meantime London Pale Ale, Sambrook’s Wandle and Fuller’s London Pride on my visit).
The Harwood Arms, 27 Walham Grove, Fulham, London, SW6 1QP Tel: 020 7386 1847
www.harwoodarms.com
For the full feature see Issue 10
